Since I am always towing something (usually over-loaded with donations of clothing and toys and tools and stuff) my route south is normally "the flat way." The Ruta Pacfico. Exclusively on the libre.

Shadowing the CANAMEX Corridor (the 4-lane somewhat divided, somewhat limited-access highway), "the flat way," is a combination of 2&4 lane highways through the Mexican states of Sonora, Sinaloa and into Nayarit. The road will basically follow the Pacific Coast. This route will bypass the Sierra Madre mountain passes that I so love, but must avoid with very heavy loads.

Entering Mexico at Nogales south of Tucson, Arizona following Highway 15 to Hermosillo, Los Mochias, Cullican, Mazatlan and on to Tepic. Both the cuota (toll road) and the libre (free-way?) are known as Highway 15.

When I can finally leave for Mexico I am so excited I am not always thinking logically or considering the most efficient route... Visa and importation permits at Santa Teresa, New Mexico this time (2005 and again in 2006) took only 20 minutes. No lines! It cannot be long before everyone discovers Santa Teresa; in the meantime, no long line to complete the permit process is really quite wonderful.

YO! WHOA! A new program allows the importation of Motor Homes and Boats for a period of 10 years! Not only can you save a few hundred bucks, no longer must you spend any time at the border for the next ten years.

Cars and trucks still must receive an importation permit that is valid for only 6 months.

But then, from Santa Teresa, the fastest way to Highway 15 South at Nogales, Arizona is to return to I-10 or, NM highway 9 that will lead you into Arizona. I prefer to just stay in Mexico on Highway 2 (the food is better). Highway 2 will cross the Continental Divide on some pretty serious hills but nothing like the Mountain passes further south. And, it is a beautiful drive!

From Santa Teresa take Highway 2 West to Imuris, Sonora. Then turn south on Highway 15. There is a tollbooth just north of Imuris so this is the first toll you avoid by staying on Highway 2. There is this one confusing place where Highway 2 appears to go to the left in Janos, you must turn right at the Pemex to follow Highway 2. The Mexican Customs (and vehicle importation paperwork check) on this route is located to the east of Imuris.


Apparently, the only route south through Sonora (and most of Sinaloa) is all very expensive cuota (toll-roads). Or so you would think because there are few (small) or NO signs for libre. But, there is ALWAYS (2006…. well, almost always) a way around the tollbooths. This is fun.

I think the law is that there must be an alternative and when there is not, private entrepreneurs have built one. When my motor home and trailer are over $20USD a shot at the tollbooth, the private way is 20 pesos (2 bucks), or less. Often the private bypass is no more than 4 or 5 Kilometers as it simply circles the tollbooth. There will be NO signs but watch the traffic, especially the large trucks. If you miss the turn and reach the tollbooth, simply reverse course and go back to the first intersection. Wait, until you see approximately half the traffic headed off into the desert and follow them.

Where there is a sign for libre the way will be intentionally un-maintained so as to force folks unto the toll-roads. Just go slowly, enjoy seeing the real Mexico and you will soon be back on the 4-lane. (2006-Practically all the 'libre' roads I used this year were in much better shape then last year).

AVOIDING THE TOLLS

Since I usually only do this once a year there can easily be changes. Please. If you spot an error anywhere within the following directions, please contact…..

Webmaster pat@patcordes.com or michael@yomexi.net.

1. Exit Magdalena. Then just follow the signs to Hermosilla.

YO! Magdalena is a very nice place. After passing through the Town and you have returned to the 4-lane, most of the gravel roads to the right lead down to the river. Beautiful. Peaceful.

Mi Casa RV Park at 165K (basic hook-ups only) and a new RV park at K164.

2. Approaching Hermosilla, there is only one very small sign for libre at KM35, turn left at KM33. Take the next paved right, just over the railroad tracks (obvious) and the same for the next paved right 30K on down the road. You will travel through 1000's of acres of vineyards. If your timings right, people will be selling fresh grapes and sun-dried raisins at every speed bump.

YO! On the left just before the 2nd right is an icehouse. Cheap!

3. Exit right to Guaymas (and San Carlos). Then follow the signs for CD Obregon. There is only one place without a sign to Obregon as you pass through the city, bare left. You will get your first glimpse of the Pacific here, at least the Harbor. Guaymas is a very nice town, with lots of gringo residents.

4. Coming up on Ciudad Obregon there is a very small sign for Libre. Turn right at Bacum, KM26. It seems a long way around but the cuota as it circles the other side of the city is about the same distance.

5. Approaching Navajoa there is a small sign for libre. Turn right at the Pemex, KM161... I find it almost impossible to believe but it seems they took this one out (2006). Just stay on the main road through Navajoa. BUT, IGNORE THE HUGE NEW SIGN FOR LIBRE ON THE SOUTHSIDE OF NAVAJOA. Just continue on the 4 lane. Follow the signs to Los Mochis.

6. When you can just see the 3 large green signs spanning the highway that mark the tollbooth; quickly slow down and look to your right. This is the first of the private tollbooth bypasses. Look for a short stretch of pavement that will become gravel as it circles the tollbooth. You must pay to enter (10 pesos) and again to exit (10 pesos). Not a great road but it is only a few K.

The individual with his hand out is normally so surprised to see a gringo that if you say, "5 pesos?" He will say, "Si." Even though there may be a small sign that says it is as much as 15 pesos.

7. Another one, just like the last, but this one is easy to spot. A gravel road circles the tollbooth to the right.

YO! By the way, the shopping back here is fun and inexpensive.

8. Another circle, but this one is to the left, just a half K before the tollbooth. ATTENTION: THEY BLOCKED THIS ONE OFF AND I WAS FORCED TO PAY THE TOLL. GRRRRRRR! I talked to the guy in charge and half-a-dozen bus drivers who said there is no other way. So, it becomes; welcome to Sinaloa…PAY ENTRY FEE HERE.

10. You will want to turn left to Palos Blancos at K133. Follow the pavement through a small town. As the paved road takes a hard left (3.5 miles), continue straight ahead on the gravel. When you first get back to the 4-lane (about 15 minutes), there is apparently no way to turn to the left (south) on the cuota. Look back over your left shoulder, there is another gravel road leading through a little village, to a break in the divided highway. Follow this road to the 2nd right, then one block to the 4-lane where you can cross the northbound lane, and turn left to Cullican.

11. There are big signs for Cullican libre. Horsepuckey! This is usually the only toll I will pay (it is cheap). There must be a way around but I haven't found it. Though I have taken the time to complain to the management that two very large signs say "libre" and they replied that if I really don't have the money, I won't have to pay. Cute. It is only 5 bucks even for my motor home and trailer. I pay the toll.

Cullican- All the turns through town are clearly marked; except for half the sign to Mazatlan is missing (Fall 2005, Still missing 2006) on a very busy traffic circle. When you hit this thing you will want to stay to the outside of the circle; a little more than 1/3 of the way around is the route to Mazatlan (it is the 2nd right at a stoplight).

The remainder of Sinaloa and throughout Nayarit, the libre is well and clearly marked with large signs.

From the above #11 (tollbooth) to Tepic on the cuota, there are 5 (or more) additional tollbooths. Prices vary.

South of Mazatlan at the Durango interchange is where my routes 1&2 come together. There may be some additional information that will be of use to you at:

[Route 1 Link]

The tolls primarily are determined by the number of axels ( mexicomike says it is the number of tires. He is probably right). Anyway, assuming you are driving an automobile or pick-up, you will save a couple of hundred dollars avoiding the tolls. The larger the vehicle, the more you will save. There are many reasons why you should avoid the expressways whenever possible, the cost being only one of them.

Since the distance on the 2-lane libre will always be greater than the cuota, you might think that your fuel cost is increased. Not really. I think the slower speed at which you will be forced to travel will cover the difference in most cases.

But, toll costs are not the only reason to avoid the cuota. You will experience Mexico rather then the homogenized culture present on the sterile expressways (oh, and the inevitable boredom). Add to that the dozens of places to stop for a swim, much better food, wonderful country folk and shade trees for your afternoon Siesta's.

The libre is the only way to go.

YO! Please, remember to deposit half your savings (from the tolls you didn't pay) with yomexico when you arrive. Food and beer, especially beer, are gratefully accepted in lieu of cash.

Obviously, anyone driving from the west coast of the US would be forced to drive 100's of miles out of the way to use Route #1. Someday though, you really must see the Sierra Madres on the highway from Durango to Mazatlan.

Yo! All the restaurants in Mexico are "good." The competition is so fierce the restaurant cannot survive with anything less than, "good food." Although consumption of the 'halfway to fast food' you will find along the 4-lane's should be minimized.

And, every so often you will discover a gem.

I am looking for a shaded spot for my afternoon siesta…….. The place looks really nice from the outside, but it was actually the shade trees that attracted me. Siesta time. Lucky me. A Family Restaurant with mom cooking and two lovely daughters for my waitresses. Dad appeared to be guarding the hammock, outside in the shade. He is without a doubt the very hard working person who designed, built and maintains this very commendable structure. I was served the midday meal in a classy, spotless, very comfortable dining room. All of that is just wonderful, (and it is certainly part of 'fine dining'). But, the real reason I am taking the time to type' this review is because everything was perfect! Just to begin, I was served homemade corn chips, crisped with just the right amount of light oil served with a salsa that was one of the very best I have ever enjoyed. Included with the salsa and chips was a cheese dip that was almost a sour crème. The combination was fantastic and the rest of the meal went on to be even better.

RESTAURANTE JOCOQUE @ KM174 Eastside / left side, on a little hill. You will see the large trees the owners planted, before the building.



Mexico's recent answer to 7/11 is OXXO. What a great name for a convenience store…Hug, Kiss, Kiss, Hug! ……24 Hours A Day! They have brewed coffee (better than instant), very clean, well organized and with consistently exceptional service.

Beware the Detours. It is quite common for there to be detours around construction sites with just the first detour sign and then no more to direct you back! Following the majority of traffic usually works but not always.



YO! Between the Mexican border and Tepic, Nayarit, there are 1,000,000 speed bumps: More or Less.



MAP LINK - SONORA
MAP LINK - SINALOA
MAP LINK - NAYARIT